The theme of the 10th annual Toronto Fashion Week was “Show Love,” and celebrations were abundant, putting a spring in my strut that the trickiest of stilettos couldn’t discourage. Fashion followers, your faithful scribe was LOVEstoned, as my two unwavering adorations (fashion and family) merged on the runway. Here’s what’s hot for Fall-Winter 2009:
Designer Linda Lundström (full disclosure: my mom) debuted the Fall 2009 collection for her eponymous label, Lundström. The show was designed as a comeback after a year of major transitions. With a line entitled “The Conversation,” she displayed an elegant dialogue of outerwear and glam gowns topped with sumptuous furs. Featuring the most environmental of fabrics (materials made of recycled pop bottles, bamboo, and corn) it was chic and uniquely Canadian.
Naturally, I might be a little biased, so I looked out for objective opinions. Sarah Casselman of Fashion Magazine described the collection as “gorge,” while Fashion Television’s Jeanne Beker declared, “It appealed on so many levels. It was just all so desirable.”
Though it may have been grand to hear LL touted as a Canadian fashion icon, the next day she was back to being dear old mom. “Mosha, there’s a big scratch on the front left side of my car. Do you know how it got there?”
I evaded the question by dashing off, because there were a week’s worth of fall presentations to review.
The Gaudet show featured designers Norm and Gio Gaudet’s artfully hand-painted standout coats. Nada was soundtracked by Marilyn Manson, and the clothes were appropriately gothic, yet romantic. Bondage, Victorian influences, and plenty of leather were fierce and reminiscent of Givenchy’s aesthetic.
Andy Thê Ahn‘s show was beloved by society belles. “We needed something uplifting, joyful, and colourful. We need some hope sometimes,” said Thê Ahn as his design credo on press materials. Catwalkers opened the show from the opposite end of the runway in stunning mocha evening wear with 3D sequin flower embellishment. The show closed with four colour-block satin dresses that evoked a high-style Wonder Woman. My favourite look was a blush blazer with an oversize bow flap worn bare-gammed.
Pink Tartan explores a bold new theme each season, and this year it was disco-queen Grace Jones. “I was really inspired by her. She’s got a new album out and is the epitome of strength and power,” said designer Kimberly Newport-Mimran. Even with edgy inspiration, Tartan’s preppy Forest Hill-mom aesthetic always manages to seep through. Capri-length leather pants were paired with turtlenecks, while extravagant fur chubbies had tight little socialite shoulders. Working with black, white, and fuchsia, Pink Tartan riffed on lean-bean androgyny. While there were many desirable pieces, I lusted most for the Chanel lace tights that KNM sported end of show. One caveat: with such luxe togs, her low-heeled pointy patent pumps didn’t measure up.
Joe Fresh delivered winterlicious confections for the zippy supermarket chain. It was the fashion equivalent of President’s Choice Candy Cane Chocolate Fudge Crackle ice cream—pure icy joy, with a retro figure skating theme. “It’s very difficult out there right now. The whole show harkens to a time passed,” explained designer Joesph Mimran. Indeed, teacup skirts, sexy seamed ski pants, and a darling printed onesie were fast fashion at its best. “I think you go to the supermarket, do a shop and sneak it on to the grocery bill,” he said. While the line is perfect for those on a budget, a top-model appearance cost a pretty penny. The Karl Lagerfeld-approved Canadian coquette Irinia Lazaranu opened the show, charming the crowd with a little shoulder wiggle at the end of the runway. It’s tres mignon.
Attending the top secret Project Runway Canada finale show was a privilege. Supermodel Coco Rocha was in the audience, as Bowie-love Iman handled MC duties. That’s about all the confidentiality agreement will allow me to disclose. Instead, I’ll gush about past PRC alums Carlie Wong, Evan Biddell, and Lucian Mathis, who did not disappoint.
I met the sweet and humble Ms. Wong, who designs effervescent party frocks for Pretty Young Things. Her dresses evoked louche 1970s Paris nightclubs. With such a plentiful use of black and gold, it was very Jerry Hall.
Evan Biddell is last season’s winner and enfant terrible. Ear plugs were handed out at the beginning of the show to guard delicate ears against the blasting soundtrack. Though it sounded like an awful turn-of-the-millennium rave, the collection made up for the noise. Motorcycle jackets with thick zippers and sci-fi superhero dresses in chartreuse, teal, and purple were strong, and the chunkiest of wool scarves softened the mix.
Lucian Matis is a true artiste. Antler-topped creatures took their place one-by-one at the end of the runway, forming a beautiful line-up of airy looks. His wood-nymph palette of neutrals like soft blacks and ashy browns was whimsical and delicately ornate. Buried in the midst of so many shows, his vision stood out as unique and transformative.
As I did the kiss-kiss and sipped my last glass of champagne (hard work, isn’t it?) at the closing party, I thought of how to sum up such an uplifting season. Canadians are wonderfully fashionable, and we need to embrace our homegrown talents. I’m reminded of Iman’s words: “Canadians have to support [their own] fashion industry. The British industry has lost most of its talent to the rest of Europe. There is great talent here and they really should support it.” I couldn’t agree more, but tomorrow I think I’ll take a fashion sick day.
Sunday morning, I awaken to a phone call. “Mosha, it’s Mom. I can’t wait to talk about next season. I have this idea…”
Fashion never sleeps.
