Pappa al Pomodoro is a beautiful thing: a Tuscan bread and tomato soup traditionally made in the prime of summer, when the tomatoes are so ripe they’re practically falling off the vines and the basil plants are the size of small trees. The “authentic” version of this recipe is redolent with garlic and fresh herbs, and the whole thing hinges on sunshine, sunshine, and more sunshine.

Unfortunately, we live in Toronto, it’s wintertime, and the tomatoes in our grocery stores at the moment could double for red cardboard. So it’s a good thing that — not being of Tuscan descent myself — I’m not really interested in preserving the authenticity of this dish. In fact, one could argue that this dish tastes even better in the wintertime, when its bright flavours and hearty sauce are most appreciated. Will the tomatoes come from cans? Yes. Will the spices be of the dried variety? Yes. Will the final product nevertheless be layered and rich and stuffed with little pillows of bread that will melt in your mouth? Definitely.

A few things to consider before you get started on this recipe: first, the result here is highly dependent on the quality of the ingredients, so it’s well worth splurging on better tinned tomatoes than the Unico brand, and make sure to get yourself a real loaf of bread (i.e. generous crust, unsliced). Second, if you feel like adding some protein to this meal, you can always throw in a can of drained, rinsed cannellini beans. Otherwise, just serve it with a side salad of arugula tossed in your favourite dressing (plus a handful of toasted sunflower seeds), and you’ve got yourself a meal. Buon appetito!

Pappa al pomodoro (serves 4 to 6)

Ingredients:

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, diced small
3 cloves of garlic, diced
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary
1/2 teaspoon dried chili flakes (optional)
2 large (796 ml) cans diced/crushed tomatoes
1 cup water
12 fresh basil leaves, sliced into thin strips
1 teaspoon salt
Black pepper, to taste
1 stale loaf of bread (rustic Italian/ French, or white sourdough), torn into 1-inch chunks

Directions:

1. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan on medium-high heat, then add the onion. Cook for five minutes, stirring often, or until the onions are softened and just beginning to brown.

2. Reduce heat to medium. Add the garlic, oregano, thyme, and rosemary. If you like your dishes spicy, you should also add the chili flakes now. Stir for one or two minutes, stopping before the garlic starts to brown.

3. Add the two cans of tomatoes, and the cup of water. Add the salt and pepper. Stir.

4. Add about three-quarters of the basil leaves, and reserve the rest.

5. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer on low heat. Allow to cook for 15 minutes for the flavours to meld. Then stir in the bread chunks and cook for 10 minutes more.

6. Remove from heat and divide into bowls. Garnish with the remaining basil.