When Wanda Beaver decided to open a pie shop, she insisted on two components in the hunt for the perfect spot for her “Pie in the Sky”: the facilities to produce enough pies for wholesale and a retail space to allow her to set up a sit-down café. She found the perfect home in Kensington Market at the corner of Augusta Street and Oxford Avenue.
“You have everybody in the market; there’s students, there’s residents, there’s a lot of businesses. The hospital nearby has 3,000 employees. There’s a lot of retirement homes and condos, lots of tourists,” she says.
“[Kensington Market] is not just somewhere you go to shop … It’s a place you go for the experience.”
Finding a niche
To celebrate Pi Day (March 14 or 3/14), Wanda and her team produce a batch of square pies. This may sound strange at first; the number π is probably best known for its application in solving the area of a circle using the formula πr². Wanda’s take on the formula? The standard “Pi R Squared” became “Our Pies Are Squared.”
While those who formally observe Pi Day might represent a small slice of clientele, one thing is certain: Wanda is Toronto’s pie specialist, catering to every whim of Toronto’s pie enthusiast community.
When it comes to marketing, Wanda is totally old-school. She’s far more concerned with the quality of the product than anything else, and she counts on word of mouth and a little media coverage to take care of the rest. Last year, her Pi Day pies got her coverage from Global Television and the Toronto Star.
Gentrification
The development of Kensington is a beast unto itself; while higher-end lofts have snuck into the mix, the Market’s residents and business owners have been successful in keeping out corporate interests, such as overpriced chain cafés. For Wanda, it’s a matter of keeping the ongoing change in the community in check, with a focus on the Market’s pedestrian heritage.
“Our Business Improvement Association is working towards more street [closures] on Sundays,” she explains. “Some of it is for a festival kind of thing, with bands and circus acts, but we don’t want things to get out of hand either, because the residents wouldn’t want that. So it’s a balancing act. Certainly we want more people to come to the market.”
Too many cafés?
While selling pie is how Wanda’s eponymous shop made its name, there’s a lot more going on in “the Sky.” To the left of the pie display is a table with Wanda’s official cookbook; on the other side sit a number of tasty-looking vegetarian savouries, including quiches, lasagna, and sandwiches. As with her pies, Wanda takes great pride in the quality of her coffee. Her café features local artisan-roasted coffee that’s fully organic and made from fair trade beans. It’s this café–storefront presence that Wanda wants.
A recent article in The Grid claimed that in the past four years, over 100 new cafés have opened their doors in downtown Toronto. The rise of the so-called “barista café” raises the question: how many is too many? Despite the rise of this café culture cannibalism, Wanda is optimistic.
“I can’t think of a café that’s closed its doors if the quality’s been there,” she says. “The emphasis, I think, is more on independent coffee shops with fair trade that sell organic products and use small-batch roasters.
“If you’ve got a good quality product, you can survive.”
Wanda’s Pie in the Sky is located at 287 Augusta Ave. and is open daily from 8 to 8.