The style and spectacle of Toronto Fashion Week brought a large measure of glamour amid the highlights and inevitable lowlights. I had the privilege of being insulted on-camera by Much Music’s Maha the fashion chicken, and the pleasure of overhearing Toronto Star fashion writer David Livingstone whining, “It’s a professional insult to be put back here with such a bunch of nobodies,” while sitting next to me in the media lounge. But aside from all the drama, noteworthy new collections took centre stage. Here’s the official runway rundown:
Joeffer Caoc
Joeffer Caoc is a master of sculpted, body-conscious fabric draping—which is why I was baffled to see his latest collection dominated by uninspired pillowcase silhouettes. Caoc’s Fall/Winter showings were among the highlights of Fashion Week last March; this time they made me wonder whether anyone (apart from a 5’10” Parisian princess) looks good in a sack dress. Even the scrawny teen models looked dumpy in Caoc’s clownish bloomers and shapeless frocks. While Caoc showed promise with a series of billowy-backed goddess dresses and shapely jackets, I was severely underwhelmed by the collection as a whole.
Rating: VV
David Dixon
Tailoring continues to be David Dixon’s forte. His jackets fit like cosmic fashion armor and his tulip-shaped skirts moved elegantly with the bodies of his cavalcade of models. Highlights included a flowing, asymmetrical kimono blouse detail, paired with fishtail-gathered black skirting, and a swingy draped cocktail dress in punchy coral. Even the scummiest, sweatpants-wearing university student would rise to sultry glamazon perfection in designs like these.
Rating: VVVV
Andy The-Anh
I can picture Andy The-Anh sitting at his desk, pensively chewing on the end of a pencil, pondering the best way to crank the level of drama in his next runway show to a Spinal Tap-worthy level 11. I imagine him leaping from his chair, shouting, “Psychotic electric violin!” as the horn-rimmed glasses fly off his face. Indeed, the live electric violinist’s spastic, hard-rock shredding certainly made for the week’s most entertaining runway presentation. The clothes weren’t half bad either. While The-Anh’s more structured pieces—suit jackets and rigidly zippered slacks—appeared too stiff for a summer silhouette, a collection of airy, tapered-leg jumpsuits revealed unexpected high-fashion elegance.
Rating: VVVv
Joe Fresh Style
Navy blue was designer Joe Mimran’s colour of choice for Spring/Summer ‘09, and snotty prep school kids seemed to be his inspiration. Models were paraded down the catwalk wearing lab goggles atop their jaunty Joe Fresh creations, but stylistic weirdness didn’t detract from the palpable excitement surrounding the fun, accessible fashions.
Joe’s smart navy blazer with skinny lapels is at the top of my springtime “must-have” list, and I plan to make a special trek to the nearest Real Canadian Superstore for a certain crisp white shift dress emblazoned with bold geometric print. Admittedly, the collection did have a few shortcomings: balloonish navy windbreakers left some shape to be desired, and puff-sleeved, bib-front blouses—heavily featured in this collection—have been a springtime staple for years. Nevertheless, a few lapses in innovation can be forgiven in the name of such budget-friendly styles.
Rating: VVV
Morales
Hints of Rodarte and Comme des Garcons could be found in Morales’ eccentric, candy-coloured chiffon creations as they floated down the runway. Bodices twisted into candyfloss florets before dissolving into layers of deconstructed ruffles. Fantastic smog-tinged ombre cityscapes embellished minimalist column dresses while blown-up Yoshitomo Nara prints completed Morales’ pitch-perfect anime dream.
Rating: VVVVV
Buffalo by David Bitton
Cargo shorts (!) were featured prominently in this show’s menswear component, as were horrible 80s-style nylon baseball jackets embroidered with the Buffalo logo. The women’s collection was a sloppy regurgitation of run-of-the-mill American Apparel street style: jumpsuits in sluttily see-through mesh and pewter lamé were paired with Herman Munster-esque shoulder padded jackets. Ensembles of plain, racerback cotton tank tops and pastel-coloured skinny jeans were almost painfully mundane. Adding injury to insult, the runway music was much too loud.
Rating: V
Lucien Matis
Matis’ beautiful spring designs resonated with the air of a modern-day Roman Holiday. While the collection may have lacked cohesion, watercolour splashed textiles and innovative structures did not disappoint. An ensemble of high-waisted, red satin trousers with a pinched-shouldered, ruffle-placket blouse balanced old-school elegance with contemporary edge. A flapper-style halter dress shingled in alternating peach and cream- coloured panels was among several of Matis’ individual designs to draw massive audience applause.
Rating: VVVV
