WOMEN
Milan—NO. 21 (1)
Alessandro Dell’Acqua lost trademark rights to his name last year when he publicly attacked his label’s owners. He has finally returned under the guise of No. 21 with a collection focusing on practical daytime looks that are easy to wear. The clothing maintains the precise tailoring of menswear with staples such as collared shirts, knit sweaters, and trousers. No. 21 infuses neutrals with vibrant pastels, balancing modern looks with an ’80s colour palette. Thanks to sheer blouses and lace that show off more than just a little skin, though, this line is saved from being tagged as too conservative.
London—SYKES (2)
Joanna Sykes’s collection was celebrated for its handsome jackets and blazers, though Sykes says the line’s driving force was inspiration from the triangular shapes of Islamic textiles. Either way, Sykes was able to bring playfulness and warmth to her designs.
New York—PROENZA SCHOULER (3)
Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough’s upbeat theme quickly became apparent in a collection best summed up as showing “refined edge.” With eye-catching patterns and shapes, classic styles were reformed into sex-drenched high-waisted leggings and sheer mini-dresses.
Paris—DRIES VAN NOTEN (4)
Belgian designer Dries Van Noten served up spot-on tailoring and military influences in his fall/winter collection. Neutrals dominate his vision for the cooler season ahead, but those who prefer multi-coloured outfits shouldn’t be too quick to dismiss Dries’ work—the outfits are still attention-grabbing thanks to flawless construction that’s bold and memorable. Dries is not afraid to play with proportions, as trenches pull in at the waist, utility pants cinch in at the ankles, and dresses explode with 1950s silhouettes.
MEN
Milan—ETRO (5)
The most appealing thing about Kean Etro’s collection is the way it reinvents traditional cuts with embellishments like odd brooches and exotic bird feathers. Also notable is his use of the most saturated earth tones possible.
Paris—DIOR HOMME (6)
Dior Homme, the men’s label renowned for championing the close-cut look, has turned over a new leaf with a collection that lets it all hang loose. While minimalism is still at the core of the Dior Homme aesthetic, the clothes are light and transformative—think draping scarves and long jackets left unfastened with floppy lapels. Pants are tapered and cropped short with free flowing lines from the waist to the knees. Ensembles are pulled together with leather bags and slick black boots.
London—PAUL SMITH (7)
Paul Smith created clothing exclusively for musicians before hitting top designer status, and his latest collection marks a return to his roots. The collection features influences ranging from Victorian gentlemen to post-punk rockers: highlights include bowler hats, capes, sleek blazers, plaid jackets, and skinny pants. Smith turns to rich blues and purples across a variety of styles for men of all ages, keeping proportions balanced so as not to overwhelm the men who wear his clothing.
New York—MARC BY MARC JACOBS (8)
In past collections, Jacobs has been generous with his use of colour, but he’s taken a step back this season to use it more sparingly. Not that Jacobs wants to suck the colour out of your winter, but maybe he wants us to appreciate it in smaller doses? The result is a charming, neutral-hued wardrobe driven by details such as pocket squares, elbow patches, and khaki—you know, the kind you can easily replicate by visiting a local thrift shop.
TORONTO LG FASHION WEEK
JESSICA BIFFI (9)
We can expect great things this season from Jessica Biffi as she takes on two collections, Addition Elle and Bold Biffi for MXM. The Guelph-born designer established her brand last year and already has the Canadian fashion community anticipating her latest work. Her past collections have employed exciting colour palettes and shapes, and she’s mixing her signature strengths this time around with phoenix iconography. She’ll also be announcing her new lines at the BIO reception on March 31.
EVAN BIDDELL (10)
A Project Runway Canada winner, Evan Biddell is a self-taught designer with a strong penchant for designing “pure fantasy.” Biddell began designing at the age of 15, when he had trouble shopping for clothes at his local mall. Now, as one of Canada’s most promising young designers, we can expect to see a line full of extremes—tight tops and billowing dresses that are high on volume—as part of his fall/winter collection.
