Around this time of year, fashion tribes throughout the city begin to quiver in their vintage motorcycle boots. Not only are we cold as hell, but we’re ready to be swept away by the whimsy of next season. Let us lay off all the bloody layers, take off the tights, and banish winter’s ubiquitous berets. In this spirit of escapism, fresh and exciting Spring trends emerge.
It all starts somewhere. Even if you feel alienated or confused by the extreme images that sulk at you on the pages of fashion magazines, subliminal messages are being transferred to your brain. From the runways of New York, Milan, and Paris, a signal is sent out that radiates long after the last Amazonian waif has stomped off. The best messages are the ones that don’t immediately make sense. For example, for fall, Balenciaga’s Nicolas Ghesquiere-fused oxford school-boy chic with a former-USSR ethnic. He then threw in a dose of tribal and a dash of robot. Translation? Preppy blazers paired with jodhpurs, kaffiyeh scarves, Ikat prints, fur pelt collars, and tetchy, futuristic footwear. Par exemple, It was a brilliant hodge-podge that had the fashion packs salivating. This highly influential collection trickled down to many a wardrobe in some form or another. (Yes, Mr. Ghesquiere is responsible for the bib-style checkered neckwear du jour all campus coeds feverishly adopted.) However, it’s high time to pull ourselves out of this winter’s misery, and fantasize about this coming spring.
Asymmetrical dresses
Please re-watch Breakfast a Tiffany’s. Ms. Golightly’s toga from the party scene will erase all frat party connotations. Holly looks modern, relaxed, and spirited. Once more, there is something incredibly seductive, yet still modest, about a single bare shoulder—fashion’s equivalent to a game of hide and seek. Some of the season’s best were shown at Lanvin, YSL, and Dior by John Galliano. The shoulder is one of the most underrated body parts—and least hated. As the dynamo Donna Karan says, “No woman gains weight in her shoulders.” Let this style replace the tired baby doll styles that once looked cheeky, and now seem prenatal.
Best paired with: Upswept hair, bold bangles, and gladiator sandals.
Try: Either bold, saturated colours, or cool neutral tones. This is not the season for Easter pastels, and we’re all chicer for it.
Boys’ Club
Androgyny remains relevant on the oft-fickle fashion barometer. From David Bowie to Pete Doherty, who stars in the latest collection from Roberto Cavalli, there is something coy about borrowing from the boys, yet still injecting a serious dose of femme. Try taking on the tux by pairing black skinny jeans with a white collared shirt (tucked in) and tuxedo blazer. The juxtaposition of masculine and feminine is the key to this look. Drape a black piece of fabric the width of a thin tie around your neck and let it hang like an undone bow tie. Add feminine flourishes like bold red or raspberry lips and nails, and hellishly high heels. An oversize mannish timepiece, jaunty bowler hat, and sharp structured clutch provide a look that is le smoking. The little boys’ section of department stores is a great place to stock up on pieces that give you this lean look. Play with the dichotomy of the sexes.
Try: Loose, almost gone waves.
Steal: Your father’s satin cummerbund.
Tip: This is about extremes, so button it all the way up or let it plunge. Anything in between can be a bit nine-to-five. And there’s plenty of time for that later.
Done Just Right: Look at Keira Knightley and Kirsten Dunst, who both found the perfect balance.
Colour Therapy
It seems that every spring we’re told colour is back, but this season there were no mixed messages. The result is pungent shades that are instantly memorable. Lapis blue, garnet fuchsia, and canary yellow add drama. Look for dresses, tops, and skirts with clean lines that spotlight the shade. If you tend to remain neutral, dare to try a strong shade at your next soiree. The element of surprise is exactly what makes these colours so interesting. High-impact accessories, like a bright silk scarf, belt or pumps spark a similar jolt. Let go of wishy-washy rules like Only Certain Hair Colours Need Apply. These fun pigments conjure up childhood, where regulations were verboten and Crayola ruled.
Try: Combine brights with sharp black to add a graphic grounding. Or if you dare, pair fuchsia and red—so wrong it’s right.
Body Con
While voluminous styles are still prevalent, the time to streamline has come. In a nod to the early ’90s supermodels that were always in Alaïa, trace your silhouette in this season’s new body-conscious styles. But make no mistake—just because it’s skin-tight doesn’t mean you should show a lot of skin. Cardigans, scarves, and cropped toppers keep this look more lady, less tramp.
Best paired with: booties, an oversize clutch, and weekly Pilates.
Tip: The great thing is how it teeters on the verge of Eurotrash, but falls just on the side of Paris Vogue. Keep grooming minimal. Sport lanky, dishevelled hair and undone makeup.
Leather Looks
The great thing about leather, besides being a seasonless staple, is its ability to toughen up looks that feel a bit too pretty. Pulling on a little leather jacket is a great way to make girly dresses less sugary sweet. Also, consider leather for the lower half. Wet-look leggings and skirts have an avant-garde feel when paired with something slouchy and soft, like a thin cashmere cardigan. Try American Apparel or a vintage boutique to find a piece that adds a jagged edge to your look.
FYI : If your leather is tougher than 400-level chemistry, take it to the cleaners, and have it, yes, washed, to get that great slouchy quality.
Tip: Still chilly? Put a hoodie on underneath for a touch of The Outsiders
